A Clay Pot Caramelized Fish Dish from the Heart of Vietnam & NOLA

+ Nini Nguyen on growing up Vietnamese-American in New Orleans and her debut cookbook, "Đặc Biệt"

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The recipe box is a collection of recipes and techniques from my favorite cookbooks—everything from up-and-coming titles to tried-and-true favorites from my collection. (Though you may see some original recipes here from time to time, too 😉) You can check out TOD’s archive of past recipes here if you’re looking for some meal inspiration.

Among many places Vietnamese refugees fled to following the Vietnam War’s end in 1975, New Orleans emerged as a prime destination given its already-rich cultural landscape, an already-existing Vietnamese community to act as a built-in support system, and welcoming atmosphere. The city’s warm, temperate climate and close proximity to water made for robust job opportunities particularly in the fishing industry—with which many immigrants were already familiar—and made for an ideal place to start a new life. Since then, the community there has continued to grow and flourish. Second- and third-generation Vietnamese-Americans raised in New Orleans help contribute to its thriving presence—maintaining their heritage, language, close family ties, and food, while simultaneously creating an experience that’s uniquely theirs. 

“When my family—and so many other Vietnamese families—came to New Orleans, I think there was something about the city that felt familiar and comforting,” Nini Nguyen explains to me over email. “There are these interesting parallels between Vietnam and New Orleans, from the shared French colonial influence to the coastal environments. Both cultures have a deep love for seafood—catfish, shrimp—and we embrace pork in so many ways. Plus, some of my family members still spoke French when they first arrived, which helped bridge that gap a little. So, in a way, New Orleans became a new home for us, but it still felt connected to our roots.”

Raised in NOLA by Vietnamese immigrants, Nini works to showcase the depth of Vietnamese cuisine and its cultural connections with the vibrant New Orleans. Stories of and recipes from a vibrant cultural intersection have made a place in her debut cookbook, “Đặc Biệt,” named after a Vietnamese term that refers to the act of adding in something special, premium ingredients or an element of luxury, to a dish—say, spooning some caviar over mực nhồi thịt, stuffed squid, or loading up a steaming bowl of phở with brisket, beef meatballs, and tripe in addition to sliced beef. Its pages contain recipes for Vietnamese favorites (made đặc biệt, natch) like broken rice with pork chops and fried eggs and crispy chicken wings coated in fish sauce caramel, in addition to those with a Southern twist—think fried shrimp bánh mì, charbroiled oysters with chili butter, and tapioca pudding topped with bananas foster.  

“The inspiration behind creating ‘Đặc Biệt’ really came from a desire to help preserve Vietnamese heritage,” she says. “During my cooking classes, I noticed a lot of Vietnamese people who were eager to connect with their parents’ traditions and history, especially through food. I’ve been fortunate to have a strong connection with my family and culture, and I felt this sense of responsibility to share that—to offer something authentic to me as a Vietnamese-American. I think it's a story that resonates with a lot of other Vietnamese-Americans, too.” 

“Growing up, I ate mostly Vietnamese food. It wasn’t until I started going to school that I even really experienced American food,” she adds. “I remember feeling a little different because I was always the kid who brought Vietnamese dishes to school. But looking back, I realize how special that was. Coming from New Orleans, a place so rich in culinary traditions, and blending that with my Vietnamese background, really shaped my identity as a chef. When I moved to New York, I noticed how being Vietnamese and from New Orleans made me stand out in the culinary world, and that's become a big part of what people know me for.” 

Today, I’m sharing this recipe for a caramelized fish in a clay pot—cá kho tộ. The kho method of cooking entails braising simmering meat in caramel seasoned with soy sauce or fish sauce in a heavy-bottomed pot, resulting in a tender protein that’s incredibly rich and complex in flavor. You’ll often find at least one thing kho in a Vietnamese spread, whether it’s ribs or tofu; this dish acts as the salty component of a meal, something very flavorful meant to be enjoyed with rice. Though this technique can apply to a variety of meats—chicken, beef, pork, and even shrimp will work beautifully here—the signature for this dish is fish, catfish to be exact. 

“Catfish is the signature fish cooked in this fashion, and it’s so integral to both Vietnamese and Southern cuisine because it’s a river fish. My family—as well as a lot of Vietnamese and Southern families—insist on fishing for their own,” Nini writes in the headnote. “In fact, my dad won’t eat catfish unless he’s fished for it himself from brackish water, where freshwater and saltwater meet. It’s here that the catfish feast on shrimp and crab instead of what’s in the mud, and their meat is much sweeter for it.”

Be sure to opt for thick-cut fish steaks (no filets here, go big or go home!!) that are round with a bone in the center. The bone helps the fish remain juicy and succulent in the cooking process, while the collagen acts as a thickening agent to the sauce and gives it a similar consistency to that of icing or glaze. Note the addition of pork belly (psst, this is where the đặc biệt comes in!). The rendered fat yields a richer sauce, and the crispy meat makes for an interesting texture in contrast to the soft, stewed fish. 

“It’s one of those dishes that feels humble,” Nini says, “but is packed with so much flavor.”

Serves 2-4

• 1 pound bone-in catfish steaks 

• ½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for rubbing 

• 3 teaspoons sugar, divided

• ¼ teaspoon black pepper + extra for garnish

• ½ teaspoon onion powder 

• 3 tablespoons fish sauce 

• 2 ounces minced pork belly, or 2 tablespoons oil

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 shallot, diced

• 1 Thai chili, split in half lengthwise

• 1 green onion, sliced

1. Rub the fish steaks with some salt and rinse with water. This step is especially important when using catfish. Since it’s a bottom-feeder, it has the tendency to be a bit slimy.

2. In a bowl or plastic bag, add the fish along with the salt, 1 teaspoon of sugar, black pepper, onion powder, and fish sauce. Toss to combine and marinate for at least 30 minutes. If marinating for longer, store in the fridge covered.

3. In a clay pot or heavy-bottomed pot, add the minced pork belly, if using, and render over medium heat until the pork is crispy, around 8 minutes. Once crispy, turn off the heat and use a slotted spoon to transfer the pork to a plate lined with a paper towel. Reserve until later.

4. In the pan with the rendered pork fat (or a pan coated with 2 tablespoons of oil, if you didn’t use pork) add the 2 teaspoons of sugar and cook over medium-high heat. Let the sugar develop color. Do not leave it unattended. Once the sugar is boiling and becomes a dark caramel color (this should take only a few minutes), add the fish and the liquid from the marinade. Flip the fish so that the caramel coats it all over.

5. If the sugar seizes up when the fish is added, don’t worry—it will eventually dissolve when it simmers. Add ¼ cup of water if there isn’t very much liquid remaining from the fish.

6. Add in the garlic, shallot, and chili. Let the fish simmer uncovered for about 10 minutes, flipping it over halfway through cooking. If using catfish with skin on, let it simmer for 15 minutes, as that will help break down the collagen in the fish.

7. Once the sauce is reduced and concentrated, take the pan off the heat and garnish with green onions, crispy pork, and black pepper.

8. Serve over rice.

Recipe adapted from “Đặc Biệt: An Extra-Special Vietnamese Cookbook” by Nini Nguyen with Sarah Zorn. Copyright © 2024. Used with permission of Knopf. All rights reserved.