A Recipe for Hakka-Style Tofu
A vegetarian favorite, by way of Indo-Chinese cuisine
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The recipe box is a collection of recipes and techniques from my favorite cookbooks—everything from up-and-coming titles to tried-and-true favorites from my collection. (Though you may see some original recipes here from time to time, too 😉) You can check out TOD’s archive of past recipes here if you’re looking for some meal inspiration.
Kolkata (known as Calcutta at the time, under British India), saw a notable wave of Chinese immigrants (including the Hakka community) in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, driven primarily by opportunities in trade and labor in the growing colonial cities. Known for their resilience and adaptability, the Hakka settled in Tangra and established themselves as laborers, artisans, and traders. Even now, their community, among others, remain an integral part of Kolkata’s cultural tapestry—elements of Chinese culture woven into the city’s already-diverse landscape.
By the mid-20th century, their roots were firmly established in Kolkata and their unique culinary style was gaining popularity among locals. Over time, Indian ingredients and spices found their way into Hakka dishes, resulting in distinctly Indo-Chinese dishes beloved by many. Think Hakka-style noodles (stir-fried noodles with vegetables and meat, seasoned with soy sauce and spices) or chili paneer (Indian cheese that’s fried and tossed in a spicy, tangy sauce). (There’s loads more we could talk about here, of course, but we’ll save that for a future edition of Field Notes). 😉
This recipe for a Hakka-style tofu can be found in celebrity chef and food writer Romy Gill’s latest cookbook, “Romy Gill’s India”—a collection of 70 beloved family recipes that chronicle the flavors of her childhood, growing up in West Bengal as the daughter of Punjabi parents. Having been influenced by two distinct regions a thousand miles apart meant that, from a young age, Romy developed an understanding of and a respect for different cultures and cuisines. She writes that this recipe is inspired by a teenage favorite: “when we had saved up enough money, we would buy this spicy tofu with fried rice from the street food stalls. This dish marries the subtle richness of tofu with the warm flavors of spices.”
Hope everyone has a lovely rest of the week! Be sure to check out Romy’s title at my Bookshop in the meantime. Many of these recipes are well-known favorites from different eras of her life (her father’s haryali murg, chicken roasted down with fenugreek leaves, cream, and spices, for example; a recreation of the refreshing split mung dal salad she and her family would get from a food vendor in Ludhiana en route to see her mother’s family during summer vacation; or a turnip curry (shalgam bharta) lovingly crafted by her mentor’s daughter and served hot with roti).
Serves 4
10 ½ ounces extra-firm tofu, sliced into 1-inch cubes
For the marinade
1 teaspoon chili powder
½ teaspoon cornstarch
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
For the sauce
5 teaspoons sunflower oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 (1 ounce) ginger root, peeled and finely chopped
5 green onions, chopped
1 (5 ounce) red onion, peeled and finely chopped
4 green chiles, chopped
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
8 teaspoons dark soy sauce
1 teaspoon brown sugar
2 teaspoons ketchup
2 teaspoons cornstarch, mixed with scant ½ cup water to create a slurry
4 teaspoons sunflower oil
Rice or wheat noodles, for serving
To make the marinade, place all the ingredients in a bowl and combine well. Add the tofu and toss in the marinade to thoroughly coat and set aside.
To make the sauce, heat the oil in a saucepan over high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the cumin seeds and, as soon as they start to sizzle, add the garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute. Add the green onion, red onion, and green chile and cook for 4 minutes, stirring continuously. Add the pepper, soy sauce, sugar, and ketchup and cook for a minute more. Add the cornstarch slurry (if the cornstarch has settled to the bottom of the bowl, be sure to stir it again before adding) and cook for 4 minutes. Keep stirring with a whisk to ensure the sauce is smooth and not lumpy.
While the sauce is cooking, heat the 4 teaspoons of oil in a pan over medium heat, then add the marinated tofu. Brown the tofu on all sides, about 3-4 minutes, and then add them to the sauce. Cook the tofu in the sauce for 3–4 minutes, then serve hot over rice or noodles.
Recipe adapted from “Romy Gill’s India: Recipes From Home” by Romy Gill Copyright © 2024. Used with permission of Quadrille Publishing. All rights reserved.