A Recipe for King Trumpet Bánh mì

tl;dr i 🫶 mushrooms

**Just as a heads up: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, meaning I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you decide to purchase the amazing books, ingredients, etc. through them. Thank you ever so much in advance for your support of this newsletter ❤️

The recipe box is a collection of recipes and techniques from my favorite cookbooks—everything from up-and-coming titles to tried-and-true favorites from my collection. (Though you may see some original recipes here from time to time, too 😉) You can check out TOD’s archive of past recipes here if you’re looking for some meal inspiration.

As much as I’d like to be that girl who goes foraging for elusive varieties of mushrooms out in wild forests, I have to admit that I tend to source my fungi via the local Mariano’s down the street. Still, every member of the fungi kingdom is incredibly diverse—in everything from shape to taste, texture to nutritional value—and regardless of where you acquire your mushrooms, there’s a wealth of opportunity in what you can do with them. Gibbs Smith kindly sent over a copy of “Mushroom Gastronomy” a while back; it’s a new companion to some of the most popular edible wild mushrooms with a wealth of information on how to cook them and make use of each fungi’s unique texture and tastes (plus recipes, to boot), written by FUNGI Magazine’s culinary editor, Krista Towns. It’s a not-so-secret truth that mushrooms are already lauded as the “meat” of the plant-based world; the rich, meaty texture that many varieties have and how easily they absorb sauces and marinades make them go-to meat substitutions. But maybe the mushroom is and wants to be known for so much more—that, just as mushrooms belong in savory mains and vegetable sides, they can shine as well in cocktails (hello, matsutake-infused gin and candy cap cream martini!) and desserts (note to self: chanterelles do very well in a galette with apricots and armagnac). 

Grilled king trumpets lend a smoky flavor and meaty texture to today’s recipe—a very vegetarian-friendly take on the classic Vietnamese sandwich, bánh mì. (Psst … if you can’t find trumpets, black pearl oyster mushrooms or sliced large portobellos would still work great here. If you do go down this route, skip the blanching step). What takes this recipe to the next level is a plant-forward pâté generously spread on the inside of the baguette; shiitake mushrooms help to create deep, umami-packed flavor while soaked walnuts give the final product a creamy, spreadable consistency. Enjoy any leftover pâté as part of a charcuterie board with pickled vegetables or on a toasted baguette (girl dinner, amirite???). 

Have a great rest of the week, all! Apologies for no dispatch last week and such a short post this week. Life + work has had me feeling swamped lately, but I promise we’ve got more good stuff coming your way. Next Wednesday we’ll be hearing from James Beard award-winning pastry chef and the owner of Flour Bakery, Joanne Chang, about a beloved piece of her Taiwanese-American upbringing. Be sure to subscribe below (if you haven’t already done so), so that updates get conveniently sent right to your inbox. Until next time … 

Serves 2

Pickled vegetables

• ¼ cup rice vinegar

• 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

• Pinch of kosher salt

• ½ cup julienned carrot

• ⅓ cup julienned daikon radish

Marinated mushrooms 

• 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce

• 1 ½ teaspoons soy sauce

• 1 ½ teaspoons rice vinegar

• ½ teaspoon granulated sugar

• 1 small garlic clove, grated

• 1 tablespoon grapeseed or canola oil

• 4 ounces large king trumpet mushrooms, cut lengthwise into ¼-inch slices

Shiitake pâté

• ¼ cup walnut pieces

• ½ cup milk

• 2 tablespoons butter, divided

• 1 large shallot, minced, or 2 tablespoons minced red onion

• 1 large garlic clove, minced

• 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil or canola oil

• 4 ounces roughly-chopped shiitake mushrooms, stemmed 

• ½ teaspoon salt, plus more as needed

• 2 tablespoons dry sherry

• 1 tablespoon soy sauce 

• 3 tablespoons heavy cream 

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves

• Freshly ground black pepper

The sandwiches

• 2 (6-inch) Vietnamese or French baguettes

• ⅓ cup shiitake pâté (recipe above) 

• ⅓ cup mayonnaise (preferably Japanese Kewpie)

• Chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

• Sliced cucumber (optional)

• Sliced chiles (optional)

1. To make the pickled vegetables, combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add the carrot and daikon and marinate for at least 1 hour or overnight. The pickles can be made up to 3 days in advance.

2. To make the marinated mushrooms, whisk together the hoisin sauce, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, garlic, and oil in a medium bowl; set aside. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the trumpet slices and blanch for 2-3 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, add them to the marinade, and marinate, covered, at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or refrigerated for up to 4 hours. 

3. To make the shiitake pâté, soak the walnuts in the milk for at least 30 minutes, up to overnight (refrigerated). Drain and set aside. Heat 1 tablespoon of butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the shallot and garlic and sauté until softened, about 2-3 minutes. Raise the heat to medium-high and add the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and the grapeseed oil to the pan. Add the mushrooms and sauté until they’re cooked through and golden, about 5-7 minutes, salting halfway through the cooking time. Stir in the sherry and stir for 1-2 minutes until absorbed. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool. Transfer the mixture to a blender, add the walnuts, soy sauce, cream, and parsley, and process until smooth. Taste and season with salt and pepper. 

4. To grill the mushrooms, heat a grill or a grill pan to medium-high heat. Remove the mushrooms from the marinade, drain, and grill for 2 to 3 minutes per side, or until the mushrooms are fully cooked and grill marks appear. 

5. To serve, drain the vegetables from the pickling liquid. Cut the baguettes in half lengthwise. Spread the pâté on 1 cut side of each of the baguettes. Spread a generous amount of the mayonnaise on top of the pâté. (Spread both on both sides of the baguette if you’re feeling indulgent!) Layer 2 of the baguette halves with half of the mushrooms, then add the pickled carrots and daikon, and cilantro, cucumber, and chiles (if using). Close with the tops and serve.

Recipe adapted from “Mushroom Gastronomy: The Art of Cooking with Mushrooms” by Krista Towns. Copyright © 2024. Used with permission of Gibbs Smith. All rights reserved.