The “Bis-QUICK” Auntie Hack for Perfect, Tender Gulab Jamun
+ Former F&W Restaurant Editor and Writer Khushbu Shah on her debut book about the food of the Indian-American diaspora
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For Khushbu Shah, former Food & Wine restaurant editor and writer of the Substack newsletter Tap is Fine, ingredients like Bisquick, store-bought dinner rolls, peanut butter, and ketchup are tried-and-true staples of the Indian-American pantry. Sounds surprising, but the lack of access to staple ingredients many Indian immigrants experienced upon their arrival Stateside resulted in some ingenious, inventive adjustments in the kitchen. Fellow members of the diaspora would learn these tips and tricks from each other, and all of this would later become the foundation upon which Indian cooking in America is built. “Amrikan,” Khushbu’s debut cookbook, is one that chronicles this distinctly Indian-American cuisine— particularly the way Indian immigrants and their descendants have added their own flavors and ingredients to American fare to create a new way of eating unique to their diaspora. In this world, peanut butter becomes an easy swap-in for roasted, skinless peanuts (comparatively much less likely to be lingering in people’s pantries) in chutney. Cream of Wheat is used in lieu of semolina to make upma.
Though partly inspired by Khushbu’s personal family stories and dishes, “Amrikan”’s recipe list as a whole is a written record of the diaspora’s overall culinary creativity and resourcefulness (including Indian pizza, invented in San Francisco in the 1980s, or even Indian Tex-Mex). Whether it encompasses Indian recipes modified with Western ingredients (e.g. pav bhaji, one of Mumbai’s most famous street foods, served with toasted, buttered store-bought dinner rolls instead of the light and fluffy pav), American dishes modified with Indian ingredients (think saag paneer lasagna, aloo paratha quesadillas, makhani macaroni and cheese), or even classic, tried-and-true Indian dishes that have remained beloved throughout generations (like dal makhani, classic butter chicken, puri), Khushbu’s book is a zoomed-out view of how immigration patterns and assimilation experiences shaped what Indian food looks like in America at large.
“I’ve always been aware of the fact that my experience in this diaspora is not the full experience of the diaspora—it’s just one perspective amongst many, and in the process of writing this book it was really cool to think about those perspectives beyond my own and the way I grew up,” Khushbu says. “I hope it’s a book that a lot of Indians who grew up [in America] see themselves in. It’s not just recipes in this book, I’m chronicling a lot about diaspora culture. All these objects we have—remote controls wrapped in plastic, little bags of safety pins for sarees and clothes—are part of our shared experiences. I hope people who grew up here really see themselves in these pages, and feel like this book is a resource they can turn to to feel connected with their own culture, their own heritage.”
“Food is often the last bridge people have to their culture or the first bridge that people build back to their culture,” she goes on to add. “In gathering people’s stories, I saw that there are a lot of, what I like to call, ‘Indian Auntie hacks’ throughout the book that feel so universal. It doesn’t matter if you grew up in California or Texas, Michigan or Iowa, the fact that there’s, like, an auntie whisper network where they all have the same tips and tricks is so cool.”
Today’s recipe comes via Khushbu’s book—not to mention, all the aunties who helped fashion a more accessible way to create one of the most popular Indian desserts, gulab jamun, at home. These perfumed syrup-soaked fried doughnut balls are traditionally made with khoya, which are milk solids obtained by simmering milk down for hours. It’s a time-consuming endeavor, and while not impossible to find readily-made khoya at Indian grocery stores it’s certainly a rarity. That’s why, for decades, resourceful Indian-Americans have worked around this by using a surprise ingredient: Bisquick.
“To me, this is the number one auntie hack,” Khushbu says. “I swear, it’s how basically everyone makes gulab jamun in America at this point—at least at home. There are mixes available at Indian grocery stores, but those don’t taste as good as this version.”
Combined with dried non-fat milk powder and heavy cream, the Bisquick results in a moist, cakey doughnut with a nice, tender crumb that’s prime for soaking up syrup. “With the milk powder, you’re able to mimic the flavor of the khoya,” Khushbu says. “The leavening agents [in the Bisquick] allow for this texture to occur without too much additional work or too many additional ingredients. There’s a real simplicity to it.”
“Bisquick was always a staple in my house growing up. My mom basically used it exclusively for gulab jamun; I always knew it’d be a good day when I came down to the kitchen and saw the box on the counter,” she adds, with a laugh. “To me, it’s always associated with large, warm celebrations; it’s the perfect dessert for a crowd.”
Be sure to fry the gulab jamun low and slow. If the oil’s too hot, the jamun will brown too fast and taste slightly burnt. These guys are ridiculously good no matter how you serve them—cold out of the fridge, warmed up in the microwave, even at room temperature. Try it with a scoop of a vanilla ice cream for a really decadent treat.
Makes 36-40 pieces
Chasni (syrup)
20-25 saffron threads
3 ½ cups white sugar
3 cups water
1 tablespoon rose water
Jamun
Neutral oil, for frying
2 cups dry milk powder
1 cup Bisquick
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
2 cups heavy cream
In a small bowl, microwave the saffron for 25 seconds. This will dry it out to make it easier to break up the threads. Combine the sugar and water in a medium saucepan over medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. Crush the saffron between your fingers and add it to the pan. Turn the heat up to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Boil for 2 minutes, then remove the pan from the heat and add the rose water. Set the syrup aside to cool to room temperature.
While the syrup cools, make the jamun. In your favorite deep-frying vessel, heat 3-4 inches of oil until it hits 350°F.
In a medium bowl, mix the milk powder, Bisquick, and cardamom until well-combined. Add the cream and bring the dough together with a spoon or with your hands until it forms a smooth, soft ball that doesn’t crack. (If the dough feels dry, you can add water, a teaspoon at a time, until it reaches the desired consistency.) The dough should be soft, but it shouldn’t stick to your hands. If it does stick, add a little more milk powder. Pinch off 1-inch balls of dough and roll between your palms until smooth. Set aside on a plate and cover with a kitchen towel. You should have 36-40 balls.
Drop 3 or 4 dough balls into the hot oil. Bubbles should form around the dough as soon as you drop them in. Using a slotted spoon, keep turning the jamun until they are evenly brown and golden on all sides, 2-3 minutes. If they brown faster than that, you need to drop the temperature of your oil. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the jamun to a plate lined with paper towels. Repeat until all the jamun are fried. Once they are slightly cooled, add the jamun to the syrup mixture. Make sure each jamun is submerged in the syrup. Let soak for 4-6 hours at room temperature before serving.
Recipe adapted from “Amrikan: 125 Recipes from the Indian-American Diaspora” by Khushbu Shah. Copyright © 2024. Used with permission of W.W. Norton & Company. All rights reserved.