Indonesian Shepherd's Pie, an Indo-Dutch Labor of Love

So much more than a meat and potatoes dish

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The recipe box is a collection of recipes and techniques from my favorite cookbooks—everything from up-and-coming titles to tried-and-true favorites from my collection. (Though you may see some original recipes here from time to time, too 😉) You can check out TOD’s archive of past recipes here if you’re looking for some meal inspiration.

The Dutch first arrived in Indonesia in the late 16th century seeking spices and other goods, and the profit they turned was enough to spur on rapid colonization throughout the archipelago—with the Verenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie (VOC) (Dutch East India Company) established in 1602 to facilitate and capitalize on the spice trade in Asia. After years of financial struggles, however, the VOC was formally dissolved in 1799 and passed on its holdings in Indonesia to the Dutch crown, establishing a colonial period during which the Dutch continued expanding their control of and influence over the Indonesian archipelago. 

That colonial period was one that profoundly impacted Indonesian society, culture, and cuisine. (We’ll get into details of those first two later—I’m making a mental note to talk more about this in an edition of “Field Notes” …) Throughout the next couple hundred years (Indonesia would not gain independence until 1945) Dutch-European settlers and traders married local Indonesians, leading to an emergence of a mixed cultural group known as the Indos that would serve as a bridge between two culinary worlds. What’s now known as Indo-Dutch cuisine incorporates Indonesian flavors and ingredients into European recipes and cooking techniques—evolved from dishes served in Indo families or in colonial restaurants served to visiting Dutch officials, and, to this day, still iconic in both Indonesia and the Netherlands.

I was reminded of such an interesting hybrid cuisine reading “Mortar & Pestle: Classic Indonesian Recipes for the Modern Kitchen,” written by mother-daughter duo Juliana (“Julia”) Suparman and Patricia (“Pat”) Tanumihardja. “Mortar & Pestle” isn’t just on Indo-Dutch fare (though Pat did see those influences on her own family; her grandfather was a Dutch civil servant, and her father’s first language was Dutch), the book as a whole beautifully captures years’ worth of Indonesian family and recipes and childhood memories—while also showcasing Pat’s brilliant expertise in Indonesian foodways. Come for the hearty kecap manis-braised pork or sweet-and-sour mee siam, and stay for the moist pandan chiffon cake (fun fact: Pat’s conjured up a more forgiving way of creating this Southeast Asian delicacy without stressing over whisking egg whites to stiff peaks). I’m beaming with pride at this one in particular; Pat’s a long standing friend of Dill Magazine. (OG subscribers will surely remember two variations of soto ayam she contributed to its inaugural issue, and/or a beautiful piece she penned for its fourth issue on Indo-Dutch cuisine supplemented with Jeff Keasberry’s recipes for, yes, this Indo-Dutch Shepherd’s pie, as well as stewed meatballs (bebotok), dry-cooked spicy beef (dengdeng balado), and seasoned chicken in coconut milk (ajam opor).

Today’s dispatch features Pat’s recipe for Indonesian Shepherd’s Pie (Indische pastel), a dish that truly captures the essence of Eurasian foodways. While classic Shepherd’s Pie typically consists of cooked ground meat and vegetables topped with a thick layer of mashed potatoes and baked until golden, this classic Indo-Dutch version incorporates Indonesian spices and ingredients—cooked chicken and ham instead of ground lamb or beef, for example, as well as the addition of kecap manis (a sweet soy sauce) to yield a hit of umami in the filling. Take a closer look, and you’ll also see oddities like bean thread noodles and wood ear mushrooms) hidden under the mashed potato topping that make it undeniably Indonesian. Pat and Julia write in the recipe’s headnote that you can leave these out if you prefer—but, between you and me, why would you?

Photo by Ken Carlson

Serves 4-6

For the topping

• 1¼ pound yellow gold potatoes, peeled and quartered

• 1½ teaspoons fine sea salt

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

• ¼ cup whole milk

• ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

• ¼ teaspoon ground white pepper

• 2 large egg yolks

• ¼ cup Chinese celery leaves or parsley, finely chopped

For the filling

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 6 Asian shallots or 3 European shallots, minced

• 3 cloves garlic, minced

• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• ½ cup whole milk

• ½ cup chicken stock

• 1½ cups diced cooked chicken

• 1 cup chopped ham

• 2 ounces bean thread noodles, soaked in hot water and roughly cut 

• ½ cup dried wood ear mushrooms, soaked in hot water and chopped

• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• ½ teaspoon ground pepper

• ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

• 1 cup frozen mixed vegetables, thawed

• 2 large hard-boiled eggs, sliced

• 1 large egg yolk + 1 tablespoon water to make an egg wash

1. To make the mashed potato topping, place the potatoes in a large saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by at least 1 inch. Add ½ teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until fork-tender, about 15–20 minutes.

2. Drain the potatoes in a colander. While they are still hot, press them through a ricer into a large bowl, or mash them with a potato masher or large fork. Stir in the butter until completely melted. Then pour in the milk, stirring continuously. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt, the nutmeg, and pepper and mix. Taste and adjust the seasonings if desired. Add the egg yolks and celery leaves, then stir with a sturdy wooden spoon until the potatoes are smooth. Don’t overstir or you’ll end up with gluey mashed potatoes. Set aside.

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 

4. To make the filling, melt the butter in a wok or large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Fry the shallots and garlic until fragrant, about 1 minute. Sprinkle in the flour and stir until a thick paste forms, about 1 minute. Continue stirring while you pour the milk and stock into the pan. Keep stirring until there are no more lumps. Add the chicken, ham, bean thread noodles, mushrooms, salt, sugar, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir and cook until the sauce thickens, 2–3 minutes. Stir in the mixed vegetables. Taste and adjust the seasonings if desired.

5. Transfer the filling to an 11×7-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Arrange the cooked egg slices on top. Spread the mashed potatoes evenly over the filling, starting from the edges to create a seal and prevent the filling from bubbling up. Smooth with a rubber spatula.

6. Brush the topping with the egg wash. Use a fork to make crisscross patterns across the top. Place on a rimmed baking sheet (to catch spills) and bake for 30–40 minutes, until the top is golden brown. Allow to stand for 15 minutes before serving.

Recipe adapted from “Mortar & Pestle: Classic Indonesian Recipes for the Modern Kitchen” by Patricia Tanumihardja and Juliana Evari Suparman. Copyright © 2024. Used with permission of Welden Owen. All rights reserved.